Bonsai

Wild bonsai


Application: wild bonsai


hi I am emanuela and I wanted your advice about a small wild olive bonsai of about 15 cm that I found by chance in the garden. It grew spontaneously in the hollow of a very large stone.
I wanted to know how to behave. I'm not an expert in bonsai, I just started to get excited after a friend gave me a 12-year-old ficus retusa. now I was trying to create a bonsai from an azalea plant that my mother received last year for Mother's Day. I await your reply and thank you in advance

Wild bonsai: Answer: wild bonsai



Dear Emanuela,
olive trees are certainly vigorous and resistant saplings, and therefore they are a good choice for those who start growing bonsai, even more than ficus and azaleas. They are outdoor bonsai, so you will have to find the right location for the plant even during the winter months, when it will have to be in a cold climate, but away from frost; generally the problem is solved by holding the plant on the terrace, and covering vase and branches with non-woven fabric in case of very intense frosts. Despite being a Mediterranean plant, once cultivated as a bonsai (ie in a tiny pot), the olive tree should be placed, in the warm season, in a partially shaded place, with only a few hours of direct sunlight a day; the same sunlight helps us instead in winter, when we will position the plant the most possiible exposed to the sun. It is a plain that loves very porous and loose soils, definitely very well drained, so when repotting your olive it mixes the akadama of the sand and a little universal soil, in order to obtain a substrate that lets the water pass well, in how much the roots of the olive suffer greatly from water stagnation. This bonsai is watered only when the soil is well dry, and we need not worry if it remains for a few days without water; in winter, we water only when the climate is favorable, with temperatures above 10 ° C. Use a slow release fertilizer, to be spread on the pot, at the end of winter. The small prunings can be done all year round, as well as the topping of the shoots; the most vigorous, training prunings are made instead in spring, in March-April.